Cultured Pearls

A cultured pearl is a pearl formed by an oyster, composed of concentric layers of a crystalline substance called nacre deposited around an irritant purposely placed in the oysters body.

Natural pearls are formed by deposits of nacre around an irritant which accidentally lodges within the body of an oyster.

Types of pearls

Akoya. The most familiar type of cultured pearl, grown in true pearl oysters off the coast of Japan. Akoya pearls are known for their lovely orient and warm colour. They rarely grow more than 9mm in size.

Mabe. Large hemispherical cultured pearls grown against the inside shells of oysters instead of within the body. Less expensive than regular round cultured pearls and, because of their hemispherical shape, they are usually mounted in such jewellery as earrings, rings and brooches.

Biwa. A fresh water pearl cultivated in a mollusk only in Japan's lake Biwa. They are smoother and more lustrous than fresh water pearls from China. Production is now very limited to pollution in the area.

Fresh water. Pearls cultivated in mollusks, not oysters, found in fresh water lakes and rivers. Fresh water pearls generally are elongated in shape and have a milky translucent appearance. Their wide range of interesting shapes and colours make up in fashion appeal make up in their relatively low value. In China, shape and lustre are rapidly improving.

Keshi. Pearls which form naturally in many cultured pearl oysters both South Seas and Akoya. They also come in a variety of colours, shapes and sizes.

South Sea Pearls

Australian. Large cultured peals (10mm and larger) grown in larger oysters (called Pinctada Maxima) in warm waters of the coasts of Australia (for example Broome Pearls). These pearls are found in a variety of colours, varying from white, silver and gold to rose. Australian South Sea pearls are generally rare and valuable.

Burmese. Large cultured pearls (10mm and larger) grown in large oysters off the coasts of Burma. Generally warmer in colour than Australian cultured pearls, they are rare and valuable.

Indonesian. Large cultured pearls (8mm and larger) generally smaller in size and creamier in colour than their Australian counterparts.

Tahitian. Larger cultured pearls (10mm and larger) which are grown in large oysters (Pinctada Margaritifera-Black Lipped) off the islands of French Polynesia. Colours range from soft grey to black hues of reds, blues and greens.

When choosing cultured pearls

Look for lustre and orient in the shadow are of the pearl, not in the area upon which the light is shining. Colour tones should be clear not dull or muddy, watch out for cracks, chips or disfiguring blemishes.

In addition, all pearls in a strand should blend well together, particularly to lustre, orient and colour. Role a strand of pearls along a flat surface to determine if all pearls are strong through their exact centres. All pearls should roll evenly, without an eccentric wobble. Buy the best pearls you can afford, then choose the clasp. A decorative jewelled clasp can always be purchased later.

Selecting necklaces

Choose a cultured pearl necklace, too, for its effect on your appearance and personality. Long necklaces are informal and versatile while short necklaces can be demure and sophisticated. Choker necklets enhance a long neck and a longer strand slenderise and appear to elongate the neck. For fair skinned women, roseate hued pearls are most flattering while cream and gold coloured pearls set off darker skin tones best. Here is a guide to necklace lengths and terminology:

Choker	16" (40cm) in length. Should nestle around the base of the neck in a single or multiple strands.
Princess	18" (45cm) in length. Half way between a choker and matinee length.
Matinee	24" (60cm) in length. Should fall to the top of the cleavage.
Opera	32-36" (81-91cm) in length. Should fall to the breast bone.
Sautoir or Rope	Any pearl necklace longer than opera length.
Bib	Multiple strands of pearls, each shorter than the one below, nested together in one necklace.
Graduated	A necklace composed of pearls which taper downwards in size from larger pearls in the centre to small pearls at the end.
Uniform	A necklace which appears to be composed entirely of pearls of the same size, though there generally is a slight difference in size between the centre and the end pearls for a more proportionate look.

Pearls come in all shapes

Cultured pearls come in a variety of shapes and the following are the most common:

Round	The pearl is perfectly symmetrical in shape.
Semi-Round	The pearl is slightly off round in shape.
Egg	The pearl is an oval shape.
Button	The pearl is a cushion shape.
Semi-Baroque	The pearl is irregular in shape.
Circled	This is a ringed pearl.
Heavy Baroque	This pearl is irregular in shape with tails.
Mabe	The pearl is a half sphere with one flat surface and comes in a variety of shapes including oval, round, pear and heart etc.

Information on caring for you cultured pearl is contained in our caring for pearls page.

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